[et_pb_section bb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”3.0.86″][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”4_4″][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-22.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” \/][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”3.0.86″][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”4_4″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” text_font_size=”16px”]<\/p>\n
Sumatran coffees are already\u00a0different<\/i>\u00a0than coffees from anywhere else in the world. The island in Indonesia is one of the most recognizable names and origins as a producing country, and it has a profile to match: Earthy, savory, woodsy, and warmly herbal with a touch of caramel and citric acid. <\/strong>Coffees to linger over, with heavy body that stands up to a darker roast. Though Sumatra is only one of the regions in Indonesia that grows coffee, it remains distinct, a favorite even among its siblings Java, Bali, Flores, and Sulawesi.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n Sakdan Abdul Wahab, a farmer and coffee collector with whom we work in the Gayo Highlands of Sumatra, Indonesia, also represents something <\/strong>different.<\/strong>\u00a0<\/i>For one thing, he oversees the second-oldest existing coffee estate and collection station in Gayo, known colloquially as Bergandal Farm (and which we call perhaps more accurately \u201cBergandal Mill\u201d), which was established in 1931 by the Dutch during colonial rule.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”1_2″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” text_font_size=”16px”]<\/p>\n Many rural farms in Indonesia don\u2019t have names because they are so small and scattered\u2014practically gardens, harvested as needed rather than the methodical picking and processing that happens elsewhere in the world, but \u201cBergandal Farm\u201d stands for both the actual coffee-growing land (100 hectares) and a collection point that, in a way, represents a microregion within Gayo: Sakdan, like many producers in Indonesia, also purchases and sorts coffee in cherry from his closest neighbors\u2014about 50 in the area, <\/span><\/span>several of whom are his siblings and others of whom are friends and friends-of-friends\u2014bringing together the small quantities of coffee they grow within the very specific area of Tererit, in Takegon, Aceh.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-19.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||”]<\/p>\n Sakdan Abdul Wahab<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”3.0.86″ custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” text_font_size=”16px”]<\/p>\n To hone in on a particular area like this at a source not especially known for its transparency is actually tremendously different: What we taste when we taste Sakdan\u2019s coffees are not simply the blanket \u201cSumatran\u201d profile, but they are truly terroir, even recognizable to a single collector\u2014speaking to a history and experience that goes back to the earliest days of Gayo\u2019s coffee story.<\/strong><\/p>\n The land and the tradition of Bergandal Farm was inherited by Sakdan through his father and grandfather, the latter of whom was the farm manager for the Dutch owners from the 1930s to 1940s, and who was given the land as colonial rule started to come to an end. The varieties planted in and around there then are still grown today: Tim Tim (a local name for the famous interspecfic Timor Hybrid), Ateng (a Caturra\u2013Timor Hybrid cross), and heirloom Bourbon, among others.<\/p>\n Sakdan processes the locally collected lots on his own equipment, also practically ancient: His Wet-Hulling machine is one of the oldest still operating in the country, installed in the 1970s and powered by its original Mitsubishi truck engine, a throwback to the Japanese influence that brought the\u00a0Giling Basah,<\/i>\u00a0or Wet-Hulled process, to the island nearly 50 years ago.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”1_2″][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Bergandal-1.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-12.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”4_4″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” text_font_size=”16px”]<\/p>\n The story of Sakdan is not simply a call back to the past, though: His passion and perseverance in coffee is also captured in his awareness of the potential that exists within this tiny area of Gayo. Not only does Sakdan grow, collect, process, and export coffee, he also has built a small roastery and cafe adjacent to his house\u2014giving literal meaning to the term \u201che lives for coffee.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n At the cafe, locals and neighbors can stop in and start their day with any number of coffees that Sakdan offers for brew and sale\u2014even a few \u201cexperimental\u201d full Natural lots, which are rare in this part of the world. Coffee farmers will also bring in small bags of green for roasting, so they can take it home and enjoy the fruit\u2014well, beans\u2014of their own labor. Sakdan\u2019s son and his friends have studied barista and roasting techniques and are essentially operating the only specialty cafe in the area\u2014could this be considered something like Fourth Wave?<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”2_3″][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-29.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||”]<\/p>\n Sakdan’s house-adjacent public caf\u00e9<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_3″][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-27.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” \/][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”4_4″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” text_font_size=”16px”]<\/p>\n Telling you<\/em> the story of\u00a0Sakdan is not only a way of honoring where coffee has come from, but also keeping an open mind about where it will go.<\/strong> Ten years ago, perhaps we would have called it impossible to source single-origin coffees from Sumatra that are traceable down to an individual Sumatran producer (as opposed to an estate owner with European heritage, a holdover from colonial times). Ten years ago, we might also have said that clean, sweet, juicy-fruit-flavors could not be found in Sumatran coffees, or that variety selections would never happen.<\/p>\n Today, we are eating our words,\u00a0and\u00a0<\/i>drinking the coffee\u2014very, very happily.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”3.0.86″ custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” header_font=”Raleway|700|||||||”]<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”1_3″][et_pb_cta url_new_window=”off” button_text=”P11144″ use_background_color=”off” background_color=”#7bb262″ background_layout=”dark” custom_button=”on” button_icon_placement=”right” button_url=”https:dev.cafeimports.com\/beanology\/view\/gayo-bergandal-mill-sakdan-11144″ header_font=”Changa One||||” button_text_color_hover=”#ffffff” button_text_color=”#000000″ button_border_color=”#000000″ button_bg_color_hover=”#911814″ button_border_color_hover=”#911814″ module_class=”CI-divi-button1″ custom_css_promo_button=”width: 100%;||min-height: 90px;||” saved_tabs=”all” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” background_size=”initial” _builder_version=”3.0.86″ button_text_size=”35″ button_font=”Raleway|700|||||||” button_use_icon=”off” max_width=”80%” button_alignment=”left” module_alignment=”left” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||” \/][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”2_3″][et_pb_divider _builder_version=”3.0.86″ \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” header_font=”Raleway||||||||” header_font_size=”20px” text_font_size=”16px”]<\/p>\n Sugary sweet and very tangy acidity with a creamy mouthfeel; lots of juicy fruit flavor with chocolate, ginger, and red pepper.<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row][et_pb_column type=”1_2″][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-1.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||”]<\/p>\n Sakdan’s son Niko and family friend Novri<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-5.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||”]<\/p>\n The mill’s two-story cherry collection\/depulping system<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-24.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||”]<\/p>\n Sakdan and his sons: Niko Sanjaya and Shulih Putra<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-15.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||”]<\/p>\n Bergandal team members pose in front of their historic mill<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-6.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||”]<\/p>\n Novri awaits Niko’s signal from above to start depulping\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image _builder_version=”3.0.86″ src=”\/\/cdn.cafeimports.com\/images\/Sumatra_2017_Sakdan_web-32.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” use_overlay=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” force_fullwidth=”off” show_bottom_space=”on” custom_margin=”||1px|” custom_padding=”||1px|” \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.0.86″ background_layout=”light” custom_margin=”1px|||” custom_padding=”1px|||”]<\/p>\n Tererit, in Takegon, Aceh<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Sumatran coffees are already different from coffees anywhere else in the world, and Sakdan Abdul Wahab (pictured in the hat) represents something even more different: Truly traceable coffees from a microregion within the Gayo Highlands.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":302,"featured_media":28015,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[306,245],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-28098","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-indonesia","category-sumatra"],"site_id":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28098","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/302"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=28098"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28098\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/28015"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=28098"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=28098"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dev.cafeimports.com\/australia\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=28098"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Highlighted Coffee<\/h1>\n
P11144 \u2013 Sumatra \u2013 Aceh 1 \u2013 Gayo \u2013 Bergandal Mill\u2013 Sakdan<\/h1>\n